Climate change is on everyone's lips and is evident in dramatic episodes. Sea levels are rising, temperatures are increasing and extreme weather events such as floods and droughts are becoming more frequent.
It is obvious that Climate change with its extreme weather conditions does not leave a fragile fruit like the Riesling grape unscathed. We therefore asked three of our Riesling winemakers from Germany whether they see the queen of white wines, the Riesling grape, in serious danger.
In the interview we have Johannes Groß ( Weingut Goldatzel, Rheingau ), Felix Prinz zu Salm-Salm ( Weingut Prinz Salm, Nahe ) and Aaron Schwegler ( Weingut Albrecht Schwegler, Württemberg ).
What is the current situation with Riesling?
We asked all three winemakers how Riesling is currently doing in light of climate change. The two winemakers from the north (Felix Prinz zu Salm-Salm and Johannes Groß) surprised us with an almost identical answer:
"Riesling has never done better, climate change is playing into our hands right now. Of course we are noticing changes, but it is fair to say that a little more sun and dryness has not done us any harm here in the German cool climate." (Johannes Groß)
You only have to look at the yields of the last few years compared to the last few decades to see that the wine is growing well. It was also a rarity 30 - 50 years ago that fully ripe grapes could always be harvested. This is now normal.
Aaron Schwegler from Württemberg is also currently happy with his Riesling vines. He looks after the inherited vines with great care, but also looks critically into the future: "I can only grow Riesling here as long as the vines are healthy and it makes sense to continue growing Riesling under the current climatic conditions."
New climatic conditions for Riesling
None of the winemakers deny that the conditions for winegrowing are changing. They see themselves and the wine industry currently being influenced by the following phenomena:
1. Drought
A global temperature increase of just a few decimal points is already reason enough to put drought on the winegrowers’ agenda.
Felix Prinz zu Salm-Salm believes that the delicate balance of the Riesling is particularly at risk due to the drought:
"The Riesling lives from the balance between acidity and residual sugar. We also don't want too much alcohol in the Riesling. The Riesling lives from its filigree." (Felix Prinz zu Salm-Salm)
But this is no reason to worry, as you grow with your challenges and still have the Riesling under control. If you don't have this balance under control, the Riesling quickly becomes boring, too alcoholic or too sour. We tested the Rieslings - all three winemakers have the Riesling under control.
2. Early Harvest
Compared to the weather data of the last 50 years, the grape harvest - especially for Riesling - has been brought forward by several weeks. Compared to the 1950s, the harvest is now on average 21 days earlier.
A change that affects the dynamics on wineries: harvest workers have to be hired earlier in the year. At the same time, however, this also means that if the harvest end date remains the same, the harvest will last longer. A cost factor that must be taken into account.
3. Weather extremes
All winemakers name individual years that brought weather extremes. From the last decade alone, only 2022, 2018 and 2015 can be mentioned. Extreme drought was the problem here. Aaron Schwegler attributes this phenomenon to the slowing of the Gulf Stream: "The facts are clear: The Gulf Stream is slowing down and thus the weather dynamics are also becoming more sluggish. Either a summer is completely hot and dry with no change in the general weather situation, like 2022. Or it is completely rainy, like 2021. Stable weather is becoming increasingly rare in between."
4. Water shortage
Aaron Schwegler adds that the increasing desertification is a result of several factors of climate change. "If you look at California, for example, the extent of the water shortage becomes clear: the reservoirs are emptying and there is hardly any rain." The result is water rationing, which of course raises the question of economic viability and, unfortunately, the existence of winegrowing. Should winegrowing be given priority over agriculture, which feeds the population?
"I cannot imagine that individual vineyards in the middle of the desert are kept alive by artificial irrigation, while the water should be used to ensure the food supply and thus the existence of the surrounding population." (Aaron Schwegler)
What does this mean for Riesling - will it be replaced by other grape varieties?
"On the one hand, that depends on the region, and on the other hand, of course, on the soil and the climate," says Johannes Groß. A window opened a few years ago that made it possible for grape varieties to grow that were previously more at home in southern Europe. However, Johannes does not plan to replace his Rieslings and Burgundy varieties with other grape varieties. He also sees the advantage of his south and east facing slopes, which play into his hands in terms of climate.
Although Felix Prinz zu Salm-Salm is generally optimistic about his Riesling, he has a more differentiated view of other grape varieties. This depends on the region. In the south in particular (Baden and Württemberg) there are certainly some challenges. However, he does not see a major shift - especially in the large top companies.
Aaron Schwegler in the Remstal follows on from this and talks about how lucky he was that his parents started planting Merlot and Cabernet Franc in Württemberg in the 1980s. Both are grape varieties that seemed more than absurd and out of place at the time, but which he is now benefiting from with climate change.
When it comes to Riesling, Aaron's planning is focused on the southern French wine-growing regions with their white grape varieties. Ultimately, it is his responsibility to think in long-term cycles in order to give future generations the joy of old vines that he was able to experience.
The Future of Riesling
"In fact, I no longer predict a great future for Riesling in the hotter areas like ours in the Remstal." (Aaron Schwegler)
From an economic perspective alone, it is not worth it for Aaron Schwegler to invest in new Riesling vines. He has never done that and he never would. After all, it takes three years before the first yields can be expected and another five to ten years until the vines show a uniformity and quality that one can live off. With increasing weather extremes, however, this development is in danger, so that he has to remove the sensitive grape variety "completely from the agenda" in his planning.
Johannes Groß still sees a good future for Riesling. "Of course, some things will change, but we are growing with the times and our challenges. I don't think we are yet to say: it is getting too warm for Riesling here."
The Here and Now
There is a lot to argue and discuss about the future. However, ultimately we can influence very little, except the present.
Felix Prinz zu Salm-Salm also takes a pragmatic view of the situation. On the one hand, his investment focus has long been on the higher elevations in order to be able to maintain a cool climate. On the other hand, one must think about sustainable regenerative farming. The soil must be able to store water, but also absorb water quickly in heavy rain. This can be achieved through regenerative agriculture: "We don't want to open up the soil any more, but we want the roots to be able to really spread and take root deeply in the long term. In this way, we create a layer that stores the water."
The most important thing right now is to expand one's know-how in order to counteract the hot years in the future and to follow the developments closely.
Conclusion
Our three winegrowers interviewed each have a different view of the issue from their different winegrowing regions. While Aaron Schwegler in the south has completely eliminated Riesling from his future plans, the winegrowers in the Nahe and Rhine regions are delighted with the fully ripe Riesling grapes of recent years. Our winegrowers are keeping an eye on climate change and are preparing for changes. The here and now is the crucial time to prevent things from getting worse.
Watch the interview with Felix Prinz zu Salm-Salm here.
About the author:
Friedemann Götz is Head of Content at Vioneers. He studied languages, was a self-employed restaurateur and now plays with flavors and words for Vioneers.